Is he the best surfer in the lineup?  No. He is not.  

Is he the most grateful guy in the water, relaxing and enjoying the salt water, fresh air, and sunrise/sunset?  Also, No.  

He is exhausted from paddling out, still can’t turn worth a lick, and is still a little fuzzy on who has wave priority…

….but he knows he can figure it all out with one more wave.